Folks, I know I reviewed some looks from Erdem’s pre-fall 2018 collection some weeks ago but I hope you’re with me as I review Erdem today again. Not sponsored by them, just captivated by the brand’s ability to connect the British fashion history with the contemporary one. Here’s a review of Erdem Spring 2019:
Erdem Spring 2019
Erdem’s vision for what fashion should look like next year is all about the dramatic, empowered, modern Victorian style. The collection mainly consisted of dresses but a few pantsuits were spotted too. Colors as black, mint blue, yellow, pink and green were frequent. The collection relied heavily on details of lace, hats, ribbons, tulle, buttons and transparent fabrics. The waist was defined for most part, with the help of puffy sleeves to emphasis on the silhouette. Much alike the Victorian fashion of wearing dark colors, it was something melancholic over this collection (probably due to the oversized hats with a black veil over). The dramatic floral prints felt dusty and old but in an interesting way.
Thoughts On the Collection
I think Erdem is growing stronger as an influencer in British fashion. It’s one of few labels that are cherishing and exploring the past centuries of British fashion and is interpreting the history in modern contexts. This collection was no exception as it went back to the 19th century, embracing its dramatic features, whilst staying true to the core of the brand. And I do think this was done in a good way. Erdem’s last collection was a bit more refined, and undoubtedly more wearable, whilst this one felt more imaginary and bombastic. The fabrics felt a bit heavier, the sleeves were puffier and the dresses felt more impractical than wearable. I welcome this though as I do like when fashion expands the zones of wearability and cares more about the esthetic outcome – it’s the art world in fashion. You already know that I have a soft heart for fashion history, which is why I love it even more when designers mix old and new. Especially when they dare to go beyond the 20th century and really get old and dusty with the fashion that’s so far away from our fashion. Much of our fashion today has a clearer connection to the 20th century, whilst the fashion before that is way too often ignored. Erdem shows, in this collection and ones before, that it’s possible to lend elements from earlier centuries and make them look contemporary. It’s about discovering our past.
The way Erdem mixed Victorian elements with modern silhouettes was done really well. This pink dress looks modern with its sleek design yet timeless with the sleeves and the scarf around the neck. This creation looks a lot like it’s directly from the 19th century, but adding the slits to the skirt makes it more modern and relevant. The sleeves of this dress in combination with the bows is really delicate. Love the yellow hue in this floral fabric, it’s intense but works well with the black flowers. It was fun to see Erdem include tulle and transparent fabrics as he included some of it in the collection last year. Both this, this and this dress shows as a capacity of Erdem to play with those delicate elements even more. Especially the second dress feels unique and memorable (especially with that hat!). Another dress I have to highlight is this fluffy yellow thing. The defining sleeves, the buttons, the collar and the ruffles all just melt together so wonderfully. I think it goes along favorably with the awkward fashion trends we’re seeing at this moment.
Though I’ve praised Erdem on going more explosive in this collection, it doesn’t mean that it’s genius to its core. A lot of the looks are struggling with a detail too much or an element too unjustified. Like this dress and this look. Mixing lace with with silk is often a bad idea, which this look and this look confirms. This style of the floral print steps away from the rest of the collection which makes it appear a bit off. Though I appreciate the effort of working mint blue (a terrible difficult color to do right), this dress would’ve been much more interesting in a warm pastel or a bubbly pink with red wine details. The color is wrong for this dress too, it would be better off if done all white or in a rich fall color. How cool wouldn’t it be in a copper shade with a slightly brighter hue for the lace details?
To try and summarize this collection: I appreciate it for its Victorian vibe, I love the dreamy style, I adore its play with tulle – but it could be reworked one time more to make sure the colors are blending better and the styling is helping not ruining. With that said though – I’m already really excited for the next collection of Erdem! The fashion world needs more of this! Xx
Folks! What are your thoughts on Erdem spring 2019? Let’s chat in the comments as always! Xx