So LFW happened this week and before it even begun it was kind of over. At least that’s what it feels like! LFW is always a mix of high and low, street style and elegance. I’ll talk more about the entire week tomorrow, but I can already now say that I’m positively surprised by the week. A lot of collections were thought-through, relevant and interesting! And one of those collections is undoubtedly Emilia Wickstead fall 2019, which is up for a review today. Wickstead’s collection for the upcoming season can be described as elegant, clean and vintage. See the full collection here.
Emilia Wickstead Fall 2019
I’ve always appreciated the uncomplicated, sophisticated, style that Wickstead usually embraces in her collections. This one is no exception. If anything it grasps the very core of Wickstead’s philosophy of designing sophisticated clothes in a functional and contemporary context. Emilia Wickstead fall 2019 has a 1940s vibe to it, with some 1950s and 60s elements too. The subtly enhanced shoulders, the drapings, the colors and the midi lengths all felt pretty retro. The color scale reached from brown to blue, green, red, yellow, grey and white. Check pattern, leopard print and florals were all used. A lot of the focus in the creations were the silhouettes, spanning from A-line to the more classic hourglass. The sleeves were also given the spotlight. Many of the dresses had details of draping which enhanced the vintage effect. The last looks of the collection were quite spacious, without a defined waist and a lot of fabric going on.
Thoughts on the Collection
There are several things I like about this collection. I like the way the looks are fairly simple, yet effective with focus on one or two statement-making elements. I love the colors and prints used in this collection. Brown is not the easiest color to deal with but I think it’s done in a chic way in the first looks, with the almost metallic vibe to it. I think the yellow they’ve used is also really good, being an interesting combination with the structured top. This pea green look is dramatic and fun, whilst this blue is also pretty unique. The sleeves in this collection are also really good. They’re both making a statement but they also feel wearable as they’re done in neutral contexts. The grey check pattern look is one example of this and this similar one is another. Love the prints too, this leopard dress is pretty intense with the insanely low cut in the front. This floral print is used in a similar way and love the contrast between the dusty look of the print and the edgy cut of the neckline.
Another thing I appreciate with the collection is the work with volume. This red dress is pretty insane, but the volume is really good and well contrasted with the petite top. Other looks where the volume is handled well is this green history, this blue one and this dramatic cape-look. I also have to highlight this black velvet dress, classic, iconic and very elegant.
I do think though that the collection struggles a bit with wearability. There are not many situations certain looks can be worn in and you can’t vary them that much without the looks losing their power. For example, this pea green look is really chic but it’s difficult to style in new ways. Perhaps that’s not the idea either, but the majority of the looks in this collection are pretty wearable and easy to like. Especially the midi dresses in distinct colors and prints. Like this red one that’s presented before the pea green. I do however don’t think the lack of wearability is a major problem as it’s only the case for few looks. What I would’ve focused more on is the overall styling. Although it’s pretty sweet and retro, I feel like a lot of the creations could’ve been more interesting if the styling would’ve been memorable. Which is quite ironic as I also criticize some of the looks for being “too done” (there’s a balance there somewhere though). But mixing the different colors and prints with each other could be one start. Like a leopard bag to go with this green dress. Or red boots with this classic white look. Focusing on more brown with this blue look would’ve been interesting to see. Anyways, you get the idea. Just add more explosive and captivating details to elevate the looks, without compromising the wearability! Overall though, I love the elegance in this collection and all the midi dresses. Wouldn’t mind them all 😉
Folks! What are your thoughts on Emilia Wickstead fall 2019? Let me know in the comments! Check more fashion week articles here. Xx