Elie Saab Fall 2020 – Review

How about starting this first Monday of March with some glam fashion á la Elie Saab? Perhaps this Elie Saab collection wasn’t too different from the regular style of the Lebanese designer, but I liked its mix of daywear and luxe cocktail dresses. With elements of bows, tulle, sequins and transparent layers it ought to be a success! See the full collection here. 

Elie Saab Fall 2020

So this fall collection from Elie Saab was typical in many ways. It centered around the glam evening dresses with feathers, sequins, tulle, bows, belts and embellished details. The dresses were easy to like as they’re flattering, dramatic and quite over the top with details. The color palette of the collection was centered to black, white, grey and red with few exceptions of blue and green. The first part of the collection felt typical of a more glam office wear, or that dramatic Carrie Bradshaw fashion with layers, details and volume. Polka dots were the go-to pattern, bows and belts the go-to accessory and dresses the go-to clothing piece. Some parts felt more proper and vintage with the mix of bow ties, white blouses and grey tweed. Somewhat an updated 1940s fashion but with more drama, more luxe and more details. 

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Thoughts On the Collection

I’m pretty sure there’s not one Elie Saab collection I dislike. This can of course be seen as a good grade, but perhaps it also reveals the fact that Elie Saab has found his style and now he’s doing it over and over again in slightly different re-interpretations. I’ve written about it before, but there’s always a fine line between being recognized as a brand for a core aesthetic and being predictable. Saab’s collections are easy to recognize but they’re also a bit predictable. Chanel is another example of a brand that’s easily identified by its recurring design that’s chic but predictable. My point is that as much as it’s a good thing to keep doing what you’re good at, it’s also a good thing to expand your comfort zone. Elie Saab partly did it this season, but I’m sure the boundaries can be pushed even further.  A balance of being recognized by design solely and surprising the audience is ideal. 

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With that said though, I have plenty of looks I love in this collection due to the fact that it’s easy to enjoy Elie Saab’s design. He mixes likable elements that are synonymous with luxe. Sequins, tulle, feathers and bow ties only to mention a few. It’s a good, glam, show. I’m especially fond of the dresses with polka dots. I just love the combination of polka dots and a transparent fabric, it’s something bold with the pattern against the semi-nude skin. This dress is a stylish example of it, with the polka dots’ preppy side being enhanced with the white collar and the black bow. The dress is similar to this shorter one, which in my opinion is one of the best looks of the collection with the black boots and the black bow tie. This polka patterned blouse is another gem, not to mention this dress. Gimme a glam event and I’d show up in it! I also like the looks that are more for the daily life (with a quite luxurious twist). The combination of spacious blouses, defined waists and bow ties is timeless and good. This look is an example of this, this one is another. Love the embellished pockets of the latter. The cape of this outfit is chic and well-layered with the white blouse. I also enjoy the preppy, Upper East, influences in this outfit as well as this one. The idea of matching boots with shorts, blazers and a blouse should be next it-fashion! Or just high boots with a dramatic cape, love that! 

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The tricky thing with Elie Saab is that many of his dresses would be the highlight of any other collection, but as he’s presenting all of his dresses together, they sort of neutralizes their own power. For instance, this black dress is bold, glam and sexy. It unfortunately competes with the attention of this black creation and this one. All three are insanely stylish, but the effect of them is less dramatic as the dresses are normalized. I realize how insane this sounds, as I’m saying they’re almost too good, but what I mean is that it becomes a bit predictable. Wouldn’t it be more fun to infuse the luxe of the evening dresses with the more basic office wear? Something that is kind of done in this look, but could be elevated? I’d love more of unexpected elements. Adding glam to normal, “boring”, outfits. More sequins to blazers, more bow ties to t-shirts and more embellishment to jeans! But in all honesty though, I shouldn’t complain. The collection is really good, there are a lot of individual looks that are perfected and it’s overall captivating. 

Folks! What are your thoughts on Elie Saab Fall 2020? Let me know in the comments below! And oh, catch more articles from the fashion weeks here. Xx

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