If you feel like the last Monday of January is in need of some fashion magic, you’ve come to the right place. I thought I’d do at least one proper review from the spring 2018 couture shows that were shown last week in Paris. And though I’ve done Elie Saab before, how can I possibly turn down an opportunity to talk about the 1920s in Paris? Well that’s right, I can’t. So here’s a review to anyone who’s in need of some glam to light up this Monday and start this week off right.
Elie Saab Couture Spring 2018
The Saab Couture Spring 2018 show was all about glam, 1920s, party, drama and a touch of Paris! Not too different from Saabs regular shows, that often embodies a romanticized, perfected, elegance. The color scale went from dusty pastels to dramatic black and champagne. Details of fringe, pearls and bows made up for the embellishment. The majority of the looks were maxi dresses in sheer fabrics, with the placement of jewelries creating a pattern reminiscent of the Art Déco style. Hats were partly used, completing the glamorous 1920s look. The collection is notably coherent with all the looks sharing several similarities. In focus is the embodiment of the vintage party vibe and sophisticated luxury.
Thoughts On The Collection
Saabs is one of those brands that often goes for the “same old, same gold”. I mean, though couture is the most refined handcraft of fashion and highly exclusive, this collection’s similarity with the ready-to-wear collections is striking. You have the clean silhouettes, the embellishment, the maxi dresses and the refined drama. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t mind revisiting Saab’s aesthetic as it’s highly pleasant and stylish, but it’s somewhat predictable when same elements are used over and over again. Though this collection has a distinct 1920s Paris touch, done in a contemporary style, it goes along Saab’s main concept of refined elegance. This is a brand that always plays it safe and is likable. Has anyone ever said no to sequins and fringe in a champagne gold though? No, probably not!
But let’s focus on the things that are different in this collection. First of all, I do enjoy the contrast of the oversized bows. They create a nice dynamic in the silk material which opposes the refined style of the dresses. The hats are a fun addition and underlines the flapper style in a favorable way. I enjoy how the embellishment creates a subtle Art Déco pattern, especially in this look. The transparent jacket in this look feels different and slightly unexpected which is welcomed in the Saab world. What all these things have in common is that they work with the 1920s idea presented which perhaps underlines that Saab excels when he explores new (but safe) paths for his design.
It’s hard to point out parts of the collections that didn’t work as all the looks are rather safe and highly likable. The collection is somewhat ambitious with over 50 looks, where the majority of the looks blends into one another in a way that makes them rather forgettable. With that said though, I do appreciate, adore and admire the refined handwork of these looks. The collection is well-made and I could wear any of these looks. The contemporary style of the 1920s Paris is magical indeed and it works well with Saab’s melody. It’s hard to ignore though that a collection that stays within the same frames of a brand sooner or later normalizes the feeling the brand embraces, in this case luxury and exclusiveness. It doesn’t necessarily need to be something bad, but it’s definitely ironic as haute couture is about uniquely produced pieces. The word normal is perhaps not the word you want to apply for fashion in the art context! With all said though, it was refreshing to see vintage Paris in the collection, though I wish Saab would’ve explored more of the daring, scandalous and dramatic vibe that the 20s was all about.
Folks! What are your thoughts on Elie Saab couture spring 2018? Do you enjoy the good ol’ style or do you wish for something different? Let’s chat in the comments! Xx